South SFV Today

Sunscreen, check. GPS, check. Ocean wave sensors, check. Scuba diving notebook, check. These are just a few of the many items a scientist might bring to the beach. However, high-tech tools aren’t required to experience the coast like a researcher.

Two experts whose work brings them to beaches shared their insights. Robin Elahi, an advanced lecturer in the Oceans Department at Hopkins Marine Station in Monterey Bay, California, focuses on coastal ecology and changes occurring on shorelines. Christine Baker, a coastal engineer and assistant professor of civil and environmental engineering at Stanford University, studies the physics of beach phenomena such as wave breaking and sand movement.

Baker explained how observing ocean waves can reveal information about the sea floor's shape: “You can infer the locations of sand bars based on where you see intense, persistent breaking waves visualized by regions with abundant whitewater.” She added that rip currents often occur in these gaps and have other visual signatures like consistent foam carried offshore or changes in water color.

Elahi emphasized his fascination with rocky shore creatures inspired by mentors who encouraged field study: “Some resources that will help you get acquainted with our local rocky shore inhabitants include websites from the Monterey Bay Aquarium, Stanford, and iNaturalist.”

Both experts highlighted practical ways to engage with coastal science during a beach visit. Baker noted that scientists use images to track patterns of waves and shoreline changes: “We can track foam in videos to estimate current direction and speed, identify rip currents, and estimate beach erosion.” She mentioned CoastSnap as a global citizen science project monitoring coastal change through crowdsourced images.

Visiting beaches after storms can reveal significant changes due to natural forces like winds and waves. Baker discussed misconceptions about coastal engineering: “A common misconception is that we can always protect coastlines from erosion and storms by armoring them with hard infrastructure.” She pointed out alternative methods such as sand nourishment or oyster reefs but noted their varying success depending on location.

Elahi spoke about the importance of tides influenced by astronomical phenomena: “When we’re going out to the rocky shore...the tide determines the composition of animal and plant communities.” He advised checking tide tables for better understanding during visits.

Both scientists addressed climate change impacts on coasts. Elahi encouraged finding personal strengths to contribute positively: “For example, I can integrate long-term ecological surveys with my teaching efforts.” Baker expressed optimism through collaborative approaches involving researchers, decision-makers, resource managers, and community members.

Educating oneself about coastal hazards is crucial before engaging in activities like swimming or surfing. Baker recommended consulting hazard forecasts from entities such as the National Weather Service or U.S. Department of Homeland Security for preparation guidelines.

In conclusion, whether enjoying surfing or exploring tide pools, understanding coastal science enriches beach experiences while promoting awareness of environmental challenges.