South SFV Today

The apparel industry faces significant environmental and social challenges, exacerbated by the growing popularity of fast fashion. According to Barchi Gillai, associate director of the Value Chain Innovation Initiative (VCII) at Stanford Graduate School of Business, both companies and consumers must shift towards sustainability. "It’s a responsibility that all of us share," she says.

In a new white paper, Gillai and her colleagues analyze the production processes behind polyester, cotton, and leather. Coauthored by Hau Lee, VCII’s faculty codirector and professor emeritus; Jessica Landzberg, MBA ’23; and Nina Sabharwal, MBA ’23, the paper details each material's impacts and potential solutions.

Polyester production consumes significant energy and contributes to global warming. Possible solutions include switching to renewable energy sources and using alternative materials like biosynthetics. Cotton cultivation often involves pesticides harmful to workers and ecosystems. Sustainable practices include non-chemical pest control methods and water conservation techniques.

Leather production raises concerns about animal cruelty and environmental contamination from chemical-heavy processes. Brands can adopt certification programs for humane treatment of animals and explore less toxic tanning methods.

The garment lifecycle continues to impact the environment post-sale, with many used clothes ending up in landfills or incinerators. The paper suggests strategies such as producing high-quality garments with timeless designs for longer use, simplifying recycling processes through single-material compositions, and promoting compostable natural materials.

However, some solutions may have unintended consequences. For instance, while recycled polyester uses less oil, it releases more microfibers into the environment. "We’ve seen quite a few of those solutions that are helpful in one respect but also have some drawbacks," Gillai notes. The paper recommends life-cycle assessments to choose solutions with the most positive overall impact.

Despite some progress towards sustainability, fast fashion's dominance hinders widespread change in the industry. The paper advocates for revenue generation without increasing garment production through initiatives like garment collection or buyback programs paired with secondhand stores.

Gillai emphasizes textile-to-textile recycling as a critical component of sustainability efforts: "Such closed-loop recycling solutions not only keep textile waste out of landfills but also reduce resource use and pollution."

Consumer behavior also plays a vital role in driving change. "To achieve meaningful results it is crucial for consumers to take part in this effort," Gillai advises. She encourages donating wearable items, buying secondhand clothes, and renting special occasion outfits as ways consumers can contribute to sustainability in the apparel industry.

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